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Painting a White Barn - Part 1
OBJECT: Watch and see how things unfold as Greg Conley paints his way to a White Barn.

Materials used:
Brushes
1 1/2" (381mm) Flat Winsor & Newton Series 965
1" Grumbacher Aquarelle Flat Red Sable
#12 Winsor & Newton Series 7 Red Sable
#10 Winsor & Newton Series 820 Red Sable
#6 Grumbacher Watercolor Classic Red Sable
#4 Round Red Sable
Paints
Sap Green, Hooker's Green Dark, Pthalocyanine Blue, Cobalt Blue, Dioxazine Purple, Alizarin Crimson, Permanent Rose, Raw Sienna, Burnt Umber

Paper
Spiral Pad (11" x 14") Canson #140 cold pressed
Miscellaneous
#2 Pencil
Kneaded Eraser
Palette - Your choice. Mine is an old Robert E. Wood model.
Water container (2) and water
Hair dryer (optional)

Reference
Photo or Sketch big enough for you to see reasonably well.

Step One: Do the work
Although not necessary, usually a light drawing is done to block in the shapes and arrange the composition.

NOTE: For a bit of fun and challenge, skip the drawing and start painting right away. It's a great visual skill builder, especially when it turns out well.
Step One
Step Two Step Two: First Washes
Using my 1 1/2" flat brush I dampened the sky area of the paper, taking care to cut in the edges of the barn correctly. I used a mix of cerulean and cobalt blue for the initial wash.

I made a darker mix of burnt umber and cobalt and darkened the sky towards the lower left. I carried the same tone to a few foliage areas in the foreground.

I then took a 1/2" flat brush with the cobalt/cerulean mix plus some dioxazine purple, squeezed it fairly dry and pulled texture into the face and sides of the barn.
Step Three: Laying the groundwork
Using washes of sap green, hooker's green dark, raw sienna and burnt umber I flowed on the fields.

I varied this tone to darken and gray down the background hills and woodsy areas.
Step Three
Step Four Step Four: A lot has happened...
...since the last picture. I became so frustrated I forgot to take an intermediate picture. I've added trees using hooker's green dark and burnt sienna. I made an attempt at the background bare trees.

The intriguing angle of the cast shadow was important to the composition and drama of this barn so I took some time getting the color and shape right. I then added a few building details to the rest of the barn using a #4 round sable.

Other fore- and middle-ground details were built up, such as the fence to the right and the drainage trough in the foreground.
Step Five: Building the details
Using a combination of pthalocyanine blue, cobalt blue and burnt umber, I added the windows and open door details as well as picking out shadows on the rough surfaces.

I flicked in the lightning rods with the same mixture.
Step Five
Step Six Step Six: Working the foreground
The painting was looking too cool with all the blue in the shadows of the barn so I bumped up the warmth of the surrounding fields using raw sienna, cadmium orange and sap green.

To break it up the foreground and add a little interest, I added indications of grasses and a rolling hill.

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